Saturday, December 20, 2014

Final observations and musings from Nepal

While living in Nepal, I have acquired a plethora of experiences and memories. It has been one of the most exciting times of my life. The dichotomies of the country really caused me to take notice. I've been to villages whose buildings, customs, dress, and general way of life haven't changed in centuries. Yet in these same villages, you will find the goat herders talking on cell phones. The houses are made of straw and mud, doubling as living quarters for livestock, and they lack furniture. Yet occasionally, you will find a satellite dish strapped to the roof of a hut. Quite a few of the houses look as though they've been assembled from random, abandoned items. Yet the people take the time to add beautiful architectural details to the houses. Doors in houses range from a simple hole, or a curtain-covered hole, or an ornately carved door. Windows are openings, sometimes covered with wooden shutters or curtains, sometimes with glass. Some floors are comprised of packed dirt, but most are cement. Some houses have furniture, quite a few don't. Mattresses are three inch thick foam pads on the floor. A lot of things are made of stone, from cooking utensils to tables and floors. At times, I felt like I was in an episode of the Flintstones.

Nepal is a Hindu country. The Hindus believe in reincarnation. Any one of the cows wandering down the street could be one of their relatives. The cows are allowed to go wherever they want. They take naps in the middle of the street, walk in the middle of roads or they walk down the sidewalks. If you strike and kill a cow, you go to jail. When the cows are walking down the road, they essentially form a moving roundabout causing vehicles to swerve around them. From what I've seen, the cows are intermittently worshipped and assaulted. Occasionally, I'd turn a corner and see a woman kneeling with her hands pressed together in front of her face worshipping the cow. Most of the time however, people chase the cows away with sticks and throw rocks at them to get them to move away. Cows are worshipped on one street and assaulted on the next street; they must be thoroughly confused.

The people of Nepal are great stewards of what they have. They use and reuse everything. Clothes are worn until they cannot be patched any longer. It is not unusual to see boys wearing hand me downs that belonged to their sisters, even if the clothes are colored pink. They people have very little, but seem content. I saw very few toys here, an occasional soccer ball, but no dolls or other toys. They keep themselves and their belongings clean. I regularly see merchants sweeping clean the packed dirt in front of their businesses. On the flip side, the people throw their trash everywhere. There is litter strewn across this breathtakingly beautiful country. The rivers, lakes, and streams are filled with litter. Pollution is a huge problem in Nepal.

The poverty I've seen has left me speechless at times. It's hard to believe that people can live in conditions like I've seen. Clean water is hard to get and even in the big cities, few homes have running water. Little girls carry water to their family's home from a central spigot in town. I've seen old women racing each other to pick up manure off of the street to use as cooking fuel. Beggars and street children are everywhere. I wonder how they survive. I was humbled by the people I met in the slums and I was inspired by their attitudes and their faith. My way of seeing things, and seeing people, has changed forever.

Hot water is a luxury in Nepal. The guest house in which I stayed in during November had hot water showers. I must confess that I did break out singing the Hallelujah chorus from Handel's Messiah when I took my first hot shower in four months.

The stores here are open air stores. Open air means that they are basically a 10x16 room, more of a stall than an actual store. No windows, just goods piled on the "sidewalk". At night a garage door is pulled down over the storefront and locked. Restaurants are also open air. Dogs and flies take advantage of the open air concept, but few people seem to mind. One of the modern stores.....one that looks like a store back home...actually has an escalator. Not surprisingly, many people here do not know how to ride it. Watching them try to get on the escalator reminds me of the escalator scene in Elf with Will Ferrell and it is hysterically funny.

For Thanksgiving, some friends decided to make an American thanksgiving meal for the American missionaries here . There are very few ovens in Nepal, so we were expecting the usual veggie meal.  One of the British men built a SOLAR oven and attempted to roast two chickens (turkeys are hard to find in Nepal).  We didn't have enough of the sun that day, so he chopped it up and cooked it on the gas cooktop.  We also had mashed potatoes and gravy.  They googled green bean casserole and pumpkin pies because they had never made these things before. The stores don't carry cans of green beans, pumpkin, cream of mushroom soup, or crisp fried onions, or cranberry sauce.....so they also had to improvise with these ingredients.  They used fresh greens beans, and sauteed onions to go on top of the casserole.  They also used fresh mushrooms and cream to make the casserole.  The pumpkin pie involved getting a fresh pumpkin, roasting it and then mashing it.  I'm not sure how they baked it.  Long story short, it was a valiant effort on their part to help us celebrate one of our beloved holidays!  It was quite delicious and a pretty good imitation of the real thing. I was quite touched by their desire and determination to do this for us. I have met many people from all over the world and am humbled by their kindness and generosity. I only hope that I have left as good an impression on them as they have left on me.

During my time here, I have had many new experiences. I've lived without electricity, hot water, air conditioning in the summer, heat in the winter, television, phones, internet, furniture, cold drinks, shoes, and showers. I've experienced the thrills and terrors of traffic in Nepal where there are no stoplights, stop signs, or clear traffic lanes. The roads were paved at one time, but monsoon rains regularly have created craters and washed away bits of the roads so that very little pavement is left remaining. I've driven over a washed out bridge with only one lane remaining intact. I've been a passenger in cars, taxis, motorbikes, and busses and I've ridden bicycles, walked, and even hitchhiked (sorry, Mom) to get around. I've been stuck in traffic jams and was even passed by a cow once. One two occasions, a cow and some water buffalo have stared me down and refused to let me pass by on my way. I've explored the side streets and alleys, and even visited a slum several times. I've seen incredibly beautiful mountains and lakes, ridden an elephant, had monkeys throw things at me, and stood within ten feet of a rhinoceros who happened to be eating the foilage in someone's front yard. I have tasted every bit of local food that I could find. Dal bhat and aloo chilly were my favorite foods here. Living without heat was the most challenging aspect of my time here in Nepal. The homes here are simple and basic. Even though the weather stays in the 30's and 40's for months, they do not have heating systems, insulation, or fireplaces. We dressed in many layers and wore our coats and hats inside all day and night. I couldn't get warm and I couldn't get rid of this cold. Because of this, it has been a miserable month. During my time in Nepal, I have had great times (meeting people and learning about them) and bad times (sleeping in a 40° bedroom at night and cold showers). I will forever cherish the friends I have made here and look forward to meeting them again sometime.

Monday, December 15, 2014

.........And beyond

After five months, the time has come for me to leave Nepal. I will fondly remember my time spent here. The Nepali people are friendly, happy, and welcoming. They are exceptional stewards of all that they have. As a whole, they are the happiest people I have ever met. I have been humbled by their kindness and generosity. Along the way, I found myself looking at things differently. This can be expected when you find yourself immersed in another culture. Things that wouldn't work at home work well here. No stoplights or stop signs? No problem. Traffic flows and merges smoothly; it is amazing to watch. No electricity? No problem. Without modern day conveniences, there is no use for it. I've learned so much here, especially when it comes to knowing "needs versus wants". If there is shelter, water, and food are available for you, everything else is just icing on the cake. You can live without electricity, hot water, cold drinks, Western toilets, Starbucks, furniture, televisions, and the internet. I now appreciate the "little" things so much more. I am grateful to my family for giving me their blessings and encouragement to go on this mission and I am also overwhelmed by the prayers and support that I have received from my friends. I miss you all and cannot wait to see you again.

 My next assignment is in Albania. I have no idea what challenges are in store for me there, but as always, I relish adventure and will embrace it happily with my arms wide open! Stay tuned....

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." Helen Keller

Monday, December 1, 2014

Goodbye November!

This month has flown by for me. At the beginning of the month, my plans were to do a short trek in the mountains and then to do a three week trek towards the end of the month. After I came down with altitude sickness during the first trek, I decided to give up any plans I had for the longer trek. Instead, I headed to the bed and breakfast managed by two of my friends. They had just taken over the B&B two months prior. When asked how I could help them out, they decided they could use some help painting the hotel. The hotel was painted Pepto-Bismal pink throughout. Nobody has been able to explain to me the affinity and affection that the Nepali people have for this color. Pepto-Bismal pink can be found on houses, businesses, buses, clothing, vehicles.....it's simply everywhere and it was on every wall of their hotel. We dubbed the project Operation Pink Eradication.

Buying paint in Nepal is quite different from buying paint in the States. There are two types of paint, distemper and emulsion. Emulsion paint can be washed and scrubbed, distemper cannot. There are no finishes from which to choose. The medium and dark colors are only available in emulsion paint, which costs four times more than distemper paint. It's very expensive. A 40 liter bucket of paint costs about$100USD. Also, there is an additional fee for adding certain colors of tint-such as yellows and reds-and for mixing. It all seemed quite sketchy to me, but Ke Garne? (In Nepal this means "watcha gonna do?)

It has taken us all month, but we are finally finished painting the entire hotel. Throughout the month, various guests have pitched in to help fix up the hotel. One of the guests bought an outdoor table and chairs for the second floor balcony. Another guest helped build a fire pit on the roof. It is so much fun to spend time up on the roof around a bonfire at night. A group of students helped me paint one day. My friends were also able to add four bicycles for the guests to use. Operation Pink Eradication is officially complete. The hotel now has three levels of tastefully painted rooms, hallways, and common areas. In one month, this place has really changed into a cozy B&B.

My time at the B&B has been quite fascinating. The hotel serves mostly missionaries passing through while traveling to their assignments. During my stay, I've had the opportunity to meet people from all over the world. By far, the Canadian team with their Ukrainian friend were the most entertaining! I will always remember their incredible sense of humor. They had me laughing so hard during their final breakfast that I couldn't finish eating. Their parting words will stick with me forever. "This is probably the last time we will see you, so, we will see you in heaven, eh?!" I can't wait!

Friday, November 7, 2014

Failed attempt at trekking #1

The plan was 4 nights/5days of trekking to view Poon Hill, 10,531 feet.  At 6,000 feet I hit the wall.  Literally, I could not take another step.  I had a horrible headache, nausea, dizziness, and was suffering from dehydration.  My 14+ years of living in Florida has definitely affected my lungs.  I ended the trek at stayed at a lodge for two nights to get well enough to go back down the mountain.  The lodge was beautiful, brightly colored with flowers in flower pots lining the entire lodge.  It overlooked several mountains filled with rice paddies and huts.  The room was 6' X 10', the walls made of thin ply and wooden planks.  There were gaps and you could see into the next room.  The ceiling was a sheet of tin.  The bed was 2 1/2' wide with a 2 inch mattress.  The only other thing in the room was a single light bulb hanging by the wire.  Not that it was necessary as there was no electricity or outlets.  I sat there and watched the other trekkers making their way up the hill.  Senior citizens, overweight tourists, and even a blind person passed me by.  This trek may have failed, but the next trek will be better planned out.  The time spent at the lodge was quite enjoyable and it allowed me some quiet time that I so desperately needed.

Going back down the hill wasn't as easy as you would think.  The path is mostly big rocks which do not provide good traction at all.  My trekking poles saved me a couple of times from falling.  I ventured out onto a swinging bridge over a gorge.  I'm glad I had the experience and now can cross that off of my bucket list.  I won't be doing it again!  The lodge at the bottom of the mountain was amazing.  I spent two nights there, mingling with other trekkers and the owners of the lodge.  They helped me (quite patiently) with my Nepali.  They were appreciative that I knew more than Hello and Thank You.  Two months of Nepali lessons finally paid off!  This lodge was so beautiful.  Once you entered into the courtyard, the columned stairs rose two stories.  On all four sides were rooms and the middle of the courtyard was open to the sky.  It looked like a hidden garden.  My room was in the very top of the lodge; I can only assume it was once a storage space.  I climbed a ladder to get to the top and had to swing up onto my floor from the ladder.  The bathroom was down two flights, across the courtyard.  My room overlooked the village square and the river.  The views were worth the climb to get into my room.  The room was so much nicer than the other lodge, even though the bathroom was a hike and a climb away.

During the trek, I met people from Germany, Britain, Sweden, France, Singapore, and the Czech Republic.  The most memorable was a French lady, perhaps in her 70's, that took over the dance floor and joyfully celebrated the completion of her hike with an exuberant dance.  That is the type of person that I want to be when I grow up!  I had an amazing time and look forward to my next adventure.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Chitwan

I was fortunate to spend a week in Chitwan.  Chitwan is on the Nepal/India border and is home to rhinocerous, tigers, and elephants. The only goal I had for this trip was to ride an elephant. After being dropped off on the main road, I hopped aboard a local bus and rode the six kilometers to Chitwan.  My first adventure was a four hour Jeep safari.  We crossed a river in dugout canoes made from palm trees.  During the safari, we saw deer, birds, monkeys, and crocodiles.  The monkeys were not happy to see us.  They were perched above us, throwing half-eaten nuts at our Jeep.  It was funny and painful at the same time! We did not see any tigers or rhinocerous.

The following day I was able to ride an elephant.  This was truly the highlight of my trip. They are so big, yet extremely quiet.  My elephant was beautifully decorated with chalk markings.  He stopped to eat once and broke a tree in half to get to the leaves. The elephant behind us wouldn't stop eating.  They are powerful animals and aren't as slow as you would think.  I have read about Hannibal, Genghis Khan, and Kublai Khan and their armies of elephants.  I cannot imagine what the men on the battlefields thought when they saw an army of elephants coming towards them.

As I was traveling to the elephant safari, the poverty of this region became more evident. The homes are constructed of bamboo sticks covered with mud.  Goats and chickens were sharing the tiny space inside the houses with the people living there.  Again, the dichotomy of life in Nepal was present as I saw a young girl herding goats while talking on a cell phone.

During my safari trips, there were no rhinocerous or tiger sightings.  On Wednesday, while walking into town, I saw a rhinocerous that wandered off the preserve and into someone's front yard.  It was only about six feet away from the road, and it was HUGE!  I got to practice my Nepali with some locals who also stopped to watch and they practised their English with me.  Obviously, they were better with their linguistic skills than I was and when I really started to butcher their language, I just reverted to my "save me" phrase and said "I am very hungry".  It always draws a laugh.

While I was in Chitwan, the Hindus were celebrating Tihar, a festival where they worship their possessions by dancing around them at night by firelight.  It was fun to watch.  They paint these intricate circles to place their stuff in.  There are lights hung everywhere, very similar to our Christmas lights.  They also paint cows and the dogs.  The following day, the dogs were all sporting red stripes down their heads and faces and most still had flower garlands around their necks.  It was all a bit surreal to me, watching the festival from the outside looking in, but I am glad I had the opportunity to observe it.


Saturday, October 18, 2014

Getting around in Nepal

On the roads in Nepal, you will find cars, motorbikes, bicycles, buses, and people walking.  Most people drive scooters or motorbikes.

As far as cars go, most people drive Suzuki Maruti's.  They are a minicar, mostly used for cabs.  Most are at least two decades old.  It is normal to pack up to eight people in these minicars.  Three people up front and five in the back.  Seatbelts are only for the front two seats.  There is no A/C, heat, vents, or defrosters.  The Maruti's still have a choke button.   My family drives a Maruti and it looks like a clown car when we arive someplace and start to unload.

As far as motorbikes go, most people have Hondas.  250 cc maximum.  I haven't seen any Harleys here.  There are lots of scooters also.  There is no maximum number of people that may ride a motorbike.  Drivers are required to wear a helmet, passengers are not. I have seen a family of five on a motorbike.  It is interesting that even the youngest of children know they have to hold on when they are on a motorbike. There is no need for speed here because the condition of the roads is so poor.  Where there are paved roads, there are speed bumps installed.  These are not smooth, perfectly engineered speed bumps.  They are built by piling rocks across the road and pouring "pavement" over top of them.  Most are painted with stripes so you can see them.  Some are not.  They are so high and pointed that most cars bottom out as they go over the speed bumps.  For the roads that aren't paved, speed bumps are not necessary....the pot holes are sufficient speed control by themselves.  Sometimes the entire width of the road has washed out from the monsoon rains.  I cannot even begin to describe how large some of the potholes are.  My family replaces their shocks every year.  The side roads are not very wide, but then again, neither are the cars.  If the potholes and speed bumps aren't enough of a speed deterrent, there are cows and water buffalo wandering about everywhere.  Don't even think about hitting one; it is my understanding that it's an automatic ten year prison sentence if you hit and kill a cow.

The public transit buses are numerous.  I've ridden on them a few times now.  It is just like the pictures you see on television.  People are packed in like sardines while others are hanging off the side of the bus.  I've always been on the inside and one time I even got to sit down in a seat.  I can't complain for a 15 rupee fare, which is about 18 cents.

Finally, there is the situation with stop signs and stoplights.  There aren't any.  No kidding. There are no stoplights or stop signs here.  At the busiest intersections, there are roundabouts.  Some of the roundabouts have trees or a statue in the middle of them.   Most roundabouts are cinder blocks or barrels piled in the street.  You would think it would be total chaos, right?  Nope. Traffic is always moving.  In some crazy way, this system works for this country.


Saturday, October 11, 2014

Today, I went into a slum.  The missionary family that I am assigned to was preaching at a church in the slum.  The slum is situated on the banks of the river.  The people who live in it make their living by carrying baskets of fine sand from the river to construction delivery trucks.  It is strenuous work, done by women.  These women are uneducated, unable to read or write.  Even though the caste system has been eliminated, it still remains in full effect.  It's hard to change a mindset that has been in place for generations upon generations.  Getting there involved a bit of walking (slipping) down the mountainside.  By Nepal standards, it was a road that we followed.  Monsoon rains have pretty much eliminated any road surface and left ruts and rocks and sand behind.  After crossing a bridge, we arrived at the church which is situated above the slum.  The slum is everything you would picture it to be.  Cinder block buildings with tin roofs which are held in place by large rocks from the river.  The buildings have one or two rooms, some have a window, and old sheets are used for doors.  People wash their clothes and dishes in the stream that runs through the middle of the slum.

We were invited into one of the homes after the church service.  They had a two room home with no furnishings.  A sheet was spread on the floor for us to sit on.  The lack of furniture is not unusual here.  It's been months since I have sat on a couch.  The other room had a cabinet on which they cooked. They had ducklings in one corner of that room that they were raising to sell.  They fed us and offered us drinks.  Once again, the poorest of the poor are feeding us, with great pride.  They have no possessions to speak of, yet willingly share what they do have with us.  They could, quite literally, carry all of their possessions on their back.  When the river gets high during monsoon season, they have to leave and seek higher ground.

We followed one of their paths up the mountain to get back to our car.  At times, the path was only a sandal-width wide and seemed that only a mountain goat could navigate it.  Other times, the stepping stones were well worn and smooth.  Always, the view was stunning.  Within a short period of time, we had climbed hundreds of feet above the river, the rice paddies, and the slum.  Looking back down at the river, it becomes even clearer how dangerously those people live.  The river threatens from one side, and the mud cliffs hover above them.  A minor mudslide would wipe out the entire slum in an instant.

This is the second time we have been fed by people who have nothing.  The first time we were walking to the river close to our home.  We sat down to let the children play.  While we were sitting there, an old woman walked past us carrying a bag of vegetables in one hand and a pile of water buffalo manure in the other hand.  She went into her one room house which has no windows and no door.  She put the manure outside to dry; she will use it as fuel to cook with when it completely dries out.  She came out a bit later carrying a plate with an apple, a banana, and a piece of roti (bread).  She offered us the food.  We split the food and ate it while she talked with us.  I was humbled that someone who has absolutely nothing would offer us what little she had.  Again today, I was humbled by the generosity of the people here.  These people have so many needs, yet they are so willing to share everything they have.

Friday, October 10, 2014

This is the view from my bedroom of the Annapura Mountains of the Himalayan range.

Top picture:  dressed in a kurtaa suruwaala, everyday nepali clothing
Bottom picture: beautiful Nepal, rice fields and mountians

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Clothes shopping, Nepali style

Ladies, you don't know what you're missing. The standard Nepali outfit for women is a kurtaa suruwaal. It is comprised of a tunic top, a scarf, and pajama-like pants. It is one of the most comfortable outfits I have ever worn, even more comfortable than scrubs. They are definitely as comfortable as pajamas. They are custom made, tailored specifically to each woman.

After entering the fabric shop, you are faced with three walls of bolts of cloth. You are led to a chair, sat down, given a drink, and are asked about your family and children. Only when this is finished do they proceed. The next step is narrowing down the color you want. This is Asia....bright colors rule! Once you decide on a color, then the staff starts laying out all sorts of bolts in the color that you want and now you have decide which one to choose. About the time you think you have your choice narrowed down, someone plucks down another irresistible pattern. It's best to go into the shop realizing that you're going to end up leaving with more than one outfit. Once the fabric color and pattern have been chosen, you are taken to the tailor. You are then measured in every direction possible: upper arm circumference, sleeve length preference, waist preference, side slit length, pantleg length, leg opening preference, V-neck/square neck/scalloped neck/round neck preference, waist-hip-bust measurements, and trunk measurement. Every stitch is made to fit your body. The tailor uses sewing machines from the early 1900's. I'm sure most of you will remember the old black iron Singer sewing machines with foot pedals and a huge wheel that make them work. Those are the machines that these tailors use. It makes sense because they can run without electricity. The kurtaas cost $17 for the cloth plus $3 for the tailor. $20 for a complete outfit....tunic, pants and scarf.....tailored to fit your body. And the icing on the cake....they are absolutely beautiful!

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Grocery shopping, Nepali style

We went food shopping today. First, we stopped at the bank and exchanged 300USD for nepali rupiah. I walked away with 3 inches of paper rupees. It made me feel very wealthy. First, we went to the vegetable stand. The selection was cauliflower, potatoes, bananas, green leafy tops, onions, peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes, green beans, and ladyfinger(okra). We bought potatoes, green leafy tops, onions, green beans, and bananas for about $3.50. This is the norm for monsoon season. You have to buy what is in season. Because no vegetables are imported, you can only buy what is ripe in this area.

Next we went to the cold store. This is where you buy cheese. You get to decide which animal you want your cheese to have been made from...yak, cow, or water buffalo. You don't get to choose what type of cheese. You just get whatever was made from that animal. So far, I've had gouda, buttercheese, and Swiss.In Nepal, life is like a block of cheese, you never know what you're going to get! Cheese is expensive, about $7 per kilo.

Then we went to the butcher. They had chickens and eggs. I'm talking about live chickens that are looking you in the eye. They butcher them in front of you, and you can observe all of the unsanitary conditions such as flies, blood and guts, and the lack of washing of the cutting implements and counters. I'm glad I'm a vegetarian. The eggs are brown and warm and some still have straw and feathers on them. 30 eggs for about $2.50.

Next, we go to the German bakery to pick up bread. Most nepalis eat homemade roti ( a nepali flatbread/tortilla), therefore it is hard to find bread in a bakery. But, they sell bread and pastries here. I was excited to be able to buy German baked goods. When I tasted them, I realized that my German ancestors would be insulted that this bakery would be associated with their heritage. Such a disappointment. Picture a packaged honey bun at Wal-Mart posing as a cinnamon roll. Sad face. Bread, $3-$6 a loaf.

Next we go to Bhat Bhatini, the Nepal equivalent of a grocery store. It is about the size of a Walgreen's. There are lots of teas and spices and chips and cookies. The produce department is one shelf. The coldbox holds six packages of cheese and even fewer packages of butter. No freezer section because, without electricity, what's the point? Next they have flavored fruit drink boxes, followed by apples. There are lots of apples because they are in season. No meat is available. In the soda aisle there are Coke products only. Coke, Sprite, and Fanta Orange are the choices. The next two aisles contain staples of the nepali diet. Flour comes in 30 pound bags, rice in 50 pound bags and there is a large assortment of lentils and beans. Three aisles of cookies, one aisle of crackers. Half an aisle of candy. Oh..Orange Creme Oreos on the endcap....yes, please! No peanut butter is available. Things only get stocked when they are available. This means it may be two months before peanut butter is available again. When it is there on the shelves, people buy six at a time. Several products are like that, jams, ketchup, milk chocolate mix, tomato paste. Canned goods are hard to find.  Lots of sugared cereal options in the next aisle.   Flavored snacks take up the next aisle with unusual choices such as chicken flavored cheese puffs and India Masala Lays potato chips. The potato chips were delicious, the chicken flavored crunchy cheetoes, not so much. I found a half kilo package of MSG in the spice aisle. The remaining aisles are stocked with shampoo, laundry detergent, soap, lotion (but no sunscreen), and toothpaste (but no floss). Next to the checkout, I find a warm bottle of Pepsi. This is quite a feat in a land overrun with Coke products. I plop down 60 rupees...approximately 60 cents.....for a moment of sweet joy! It's the little things in life that can bring the most joy, isn't it?



Sunday, September 21, 2014

Let the nightmare begin....I have a toothache in a third world country.  I'm praying it's not a cavity.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Wisdom to know the difference......


While growing up, there was a cross stitch copy of the serenity prayer hanging on the wall of our dining room.  By the time I was in the fifth grade I had it memorized.  It read, "God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change; courage to change the things I can; and wisdom to know the difference."

This month, for the first time in my life, the meaning of this prayer finally impacted my life. Due to the current political, religious, and ethnic tensions, I cannot go into details for the protection of those trying to help.  I can say that I have witnessed human rights violations.

It is hard having a 21st century viewpoint in a culture steeped in centuries old traditions and mindsets. Authorities know about the situation which I observed.  It has been going on for decades. The attitude is that it is best for society for these individuals to be treated this way. For me, the line between "socially acceptable" and basic human rights has clearly been crossed.  I've talked with other missionaries who are trying to help those impacted and they acknowledge that what I witnessed is not an isolated incident.

I came here to make a difference in the lives of those who already have so little.  To find out that these children have absolutely no basic human rights devastates me.  So here I am, in a country where so many people need help.  Where does one start? I guess this is where the serenity prayer comes in useful.  I will continue on with my work here, impacting where I am able, and, grudgingly, accepting my limitations.

Friday, September 12, 2014

Well, I've been here over a month now and I have adjusted well to the culture shock. I've dealt with the personal space issues...Nepalis are very friendly and prefer to get in close.  Interruptions...these are culturally acceptable and normal. Curiosity....they will go through your stuff--mostly just to see things that are not common for Nepal.  And then there are the bathrooms... I have not adjusted well to them and I shall never get used to them.

Things I've learned thus far:
Nepal is a place where starvation is a problem, not obesity. Men walk with arms around each other shoulders because they are friends, not because they are homosexual. Water buffalo, chickens, dogs, monkeys, and cows in the street are quite normal. I am more surprised when I have electricity than when I don't. I have learned that furniture and silverware are truly completely optional. I haven't worn shoes or a watch in over a month....and it feels wonderful. I've lost some weight, but feel great. Smiles need no translation. It's OK to sing off key as long as you sing as loud as you can.  The same goes for dancing....apparently there is no such thing as a bad dance move.  I am learning a LOT of patience dealing with home schooling a six year old, caring for a 17 month-old baby, and trying to "reason" with an autistic 4 year-old. I am loving the new friends and connections which I have made and am amazed at the number of international humanitarian groups/opportunities here. Be content with what you have. Share with others.  Practise hospitality.

The best church moment yet:
Women are on the left side of the room, men are on the other.  One father was holding his daughter, who was becoming fussy.  His wife was on the other side of the room.  Without hesitation she threw a stuffed animal clear across the room, missing her husband yet nailing another man in the head!  Priceless!

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Holy lightning!

     It's been a brutal ten days here.  Our house was struck by lightning. There is nothing like being awoken by a simultaneous bolt of brightness and an intense thundering boom.  It brought me straight out of bed. If that wasn't unnerving enough, my muddled, not-quite-awake brain couldn't figure out what was bouncing around on my floor.  I grabbed my wind-up powered flashlight (Thanks Sis and Jim, it's been VERY well used this trip!) and discovered that the strike had blown the plastic outlet covers off of the wall.  They ricocheted off the opposite wall before clanging and bouncing off the tile floor. The kids were terrified and screaming upstairs.  The upstairs ceiling fan had caught on fire and had burned itself out.  The phone line was melted and burned up, all of our breakers were burned, and there is exploded bits of debris all over the roof. An electrician will have to come out to fix the wiring upstairs.  We've only been averaging about four hours of electricity per day, so there's no hurry for those repairs.  We've been without internet ever since.  Side note:  there are no fire brigades here.  All buildings are cinder block and stone construction so there's no fuel for fires and thus, no need for fire trucks.
     My tablet hit the ground and the screen is now shattered.  There are no Best Buys in Nepal for me to replace it and I can't have a new one shipped. There is no evidence of a home delivery mail system here.  The missionaries report that packages seldom arrive.  Most get lost in transit.  If one does happen to show up, it goes to an office in Pokhara, where it sits.  Once a 100% import tax is paid, then it is released.  The only way to know if you do have a package is to stop by every day and ask.  They do not notify when a package arrives.  I may have to wait until someone comes to visit so they can hand carry a replacement tablet for me.  (Hint, hint children....are you reading this?)

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Observations on the Christian church in Nepal

     The Sabbath is on Saturday for all religions here. Since I've been here, I have been attending a nondenominational church with my host family.  Church services last for two hours.  Before you enter, shoes are left scattered outside.  Women sit on the left, men on the right.  We sit cross legged elbow to elbow in a large empty room with six noisy ceiling fans which circulate air from the open, unscreened windows.  The praise band consists of a guitar player, a drummer, a violinist, 4 backup singers, and on occasion, a keyboardist.  We stand for the first half hour to sing songs praising God.   This is nothing like church services back home.  These people sing from a deep inside of them. I get caught up listening to them sing in heavily accented English.  About half of the songs are sung in English and I recognize all of them, most of the songs are by Christian praise artists such as Chris Tomlin.
     The next part of the service consists of personal testimonies.  During these tear filled testimonies, it is eye opening for me to see how much these people have given up for their choice of faith and how overjoyed they are now with their choice.  When a person leaves another religion (Hindu, Muslim) they face shunning from their community and even their families.  They are kicked out of their homes, and in the villages, they are banned from the villages.  It is truly a sacrifice to become a Christian here.  They face social and economic hardships from this decision to become a Christian.  The need for fellowship-to connect with other believers-is essential here.  I never understood the importance of fellowship until I came here.  It is an essential lifeline providing connections and support for the believers here.  The church is truly a family.  They support each other and take care of each others needs.
     After testimonies, the sermon is preached.  People follow along in their very worn, well read bibles.  I was impacted by the condition of their worn bibles...the handprints worn into the leather, the tattered pages.  It speaks volumes.   Prayer follows the sermon.  Nepali style prayer means everybody prays out loud at the same time.  This was quite unnerving to me at first, but I have grown accustomed to it and now it seems comforting.  After the two hour service, people leave for each others homes to share a meal.
     Communion services are essentially the same as those in the States.  The main difference is that the bread they use here is roti-which is a cross between flatbread and a tortilla. I haven't participated yet because I still haven't mastered the art of tearing off a small piece of roti while using only my right hand.  In this culture, the left hand is considered unclean. It cannot be used for eating, greeting, or giving presents.  I am still practising this skill.  The next time you eat a quesadilla, try tearing off a 1/4 x1/4 inch square piece using only your right hand and you'll see my dilemma. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
    The church in Asia is vibrant and emotional, unlike anything I have ever experienced.  With their lives drastically changed, these people are living their faith outwardly in all aspects and enduring the trials which result from their choice of faith.  My experience here with the church has changed my perspective of worship.  I have seen a church truly alive and I have been changed after meeting these Christians.
    On another note, the Nepali government is in the process of writing a new constitution.  The Christians here are concerned that the new constitution would prohibit their religion.  This is a very real possibility if the Hindu extremists can get enough support.  If this happens, the Christians in Nepal would be forced to go underground, meeting secretly in homes.  Please pray about this.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Daily life

Everyone has been asking about the daily life here. NepalI's sleep with the sun.  They awake at daybreak and go to bed when the sun goes down.  I have had no problem adjusting to this schedule. Breakfast consists of anything from rice to toast and tea.
     The people of Nepal are actually very conservation oriented.  They use everything and throw very little away.  Every bit of food is used.  Rotten fruit is used in baked goods...and I can assure you that it is good. Any food scraps that absolutely cannot be eaten are thrown out in the fields for the water buffalo to eat.  The milk here comes from water buffalo and it is not processed/ homogenized/or pasteurized.  It is kept in a milk pot and heated gently when ready to be used.  I like the taste of it in my tea.  Utensils in the kitchen are very simple.  A large rock is used as a garlic press.  Handmade wooden rolling pins and rolling boards are used to make roti, a nepali bread. Gas is used to fuel the hot plates that are used for cooking. It is rare to consume meat.  Everyone has vegetables growing in pots on their roofs or anywhere in the ground that is available. Dishes are washed, then rerinsed in purified water.  This is because the water here carries horrible diseases such as Guardia, hepatitis, and dysentery.  They collect rainwater during monsoon season from their roofs and store it in huge cistern.  They use this water for drinking purposes only after it goes through a filter system.  Toilets are generally a hole in the floor, unless you're rich and can afford to install a Western toilet.   Most of Nepal is not rich.  Because of the lack of continuous electricity, there is no hot water unless it is heated up on the gas hot plates.  Any trash is burned, although it is rare to have any trash at all.  Every house has a solar panel on top.  The panels power a solar battery which operates lights in the house.  the catch...only one light may be used at a time.  There isn't a lot of sunlight during monsoon season for the panels to collect.
     Electricity is a challenge here.  Nepal relies on hydroelectric dams for their source of electricity.  This works well during monsoon season but not so much the rest of the year.  This year, two dams were damaged by mudslides, so electricity has been scarce.  To conserve what electricity there is, Nepal uses load-shedding.  This means they cut off electricity to different parts of the cities at different times of the day.  Last week, we were scheduled for 60 hours of load shedding, 2 five hour segments at a time every day.  This did not go as planned.  We were without electricity for 30 hours straight.  Luckily, the only thing we use electricity for is to charge our tablets and to run the washing machine.
     Washing clothes during monsoon season requires a conscientious plan of attack.  You must make sure that load shed isn't scheduled for the time of your wash cycle.  Ask any nepali and they can tell you to the minute how long it takes to wash a load of clothes.  Next, you must know that there will be at least 30 minutes of sun to start the drying process.  Finally, you must watch for rains after you hang up the wash.  If you miscalculate any of the above steps, you will end up with smelly, musty, wet clothes that never fully dry.  I hate wearing damp clothes, always have.  I wear everything as long as I can to make it through to a sunny day, when hopefully there will be electricity.
     The main meal here in dhal bhat, which is rice and lentils with vegetables.  Most nepalis eat it twice a day for lunch and dinner. Like the nepalis, I could live off this dish without complaints.
     We live two houses from a Hindu temple.  Hindus ring tinny bells at odd hours of the night.  They also play instrumental flute music at 530 am every morning.  Yesterday, the morning flute music was actually a Christian song.  We just sang along and laughed.  At night, there are frequent "parades" as the Hindus march to their temple either playing drums or ringing the soft, tinny bells.  The music is beautiful and I don't mind it at all.
     Generally, the people here are very happy.  They sing all the time.  They also break out into dance quite randomly.  When the baggage carousel at the airport was slow and finally stopped altogether, instead of getting upset, some men broke out into a dance until the belt restarted.  The same thing happened on the airplane while we were waiting to disembark.  they are always smiling and they dot seem to know what stress is.  It's a great ay to live and I have adjusted completely.





Vistas from Kathmandu.  I was extremely impressed by the details on the buildings.  The door is hand carved with amazing intricate details.  The final picure is a selfie taken with a water buffalo outside my home.

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Kathmandu
I only got to spend about 16 hours in Kathmandu but the experience will be a part of me forever.  Personally, I think everyone's bucket list should include a trip to Kathmandu complete with a taxi ride through downtown.  The traffic is terrifying yet exhilarating at the same time.  You can LITERALLY reach out and touch the others drivers regardless of which direction they are traveling. Lane designations seem to be merely suggestions. There are no single file lanes.  If there is an unoccupied space, it is fair game to wedge your vehicle into it. It seems as though there is an unwritten rule to challenge drivers to see how many trucks/cars/motorbikes can fit side by side within the white lines. Horns are honked constantly and mere inches separate vehicles whether they are moving or stopped. It is one big game of "chicken". Animals add to the traffic challenges.  Cows meander through the city streets uconcerned with the traffic.  Even funnier was the pack of stray dogs chasing a monkey through the traffic, completely indifferent to the traffic speeding by them.  Smog is very thick in the city and many people wear masks in an attempt to protect themselves.  The city smells of diesel fumes intermixed with woodsmoke and spices.  Strangely enough, the smell is surprisingly pleasant.

The buildings in Kathmandu are simple, yet most have colorful, intricate details that you would not expect.  Most have rooftops gardens, solar collection systems, and rain collection systems.   Hopefully my internet connection will stay strong so I can upload some pictures.

Saturday, June 14, 2014

My First Assignment



My first assignment will be in Nepal.  I will be working with Mission Nannys.  Mission Nannys was formed years ago to help overseas missionary families through stressful situations by sending a volunteer Mission Nanny to serve them.  My new family has three adorable children.  I will be homeschooling the oldest two children, keeping a watchful eye on the youngest child, and helping with the cooking and cleaning.  Do you remember Alice from the Brady Bunch?  Yep, that’s going to be me!

Nepal only issues visas allowing visitors to stay a maximum of 150 calendar days per year.  By scheduling my visits back to back, I can stay 150 days during the end of 2014 and 150 days from the beginning of 2015.  This gives me ten months straight that I will be able to help this wonderful missionary family. Surprisingly, learning the Nepali language has been unusually easy for me.  I am looking forward to being immersed in their culture and learning to speak the language fluently. 

I am beyond thrilled to have this opportunity to serve.  God uses each of us according to our strengths.  God created me to be unique and He uses that uniqueness for His glory.  My quirky sense of humor, my klutziness, my personality....God uses my uniqueness to connect with those around me. That is what gives me the confidence to leave a great job, a caring family, and everything that I am familiar with to travel halfway around the Earth to be a Nanny. God is in control....let the adventure begin!  In 50 days, I will begin this wonderful adventure! 



This is Lenny.  He is my traveling gnome. In my family, gnomes are reasons to smile.  They live in our garden, hidden in ceramic mushroom houses.  They reside on our Christmas tree and sometimes peek out from behind our televisions.  I purchased Lenny specifically to remind me of my wonderful sister, who would give anything to join me on this trip.  During my adventure I will be posting lots of pictures of Lenny.  I hope you enjoy the world from his viewpoint!  

Called or not, God is there.

Saturday, April 19, 2014

This is the beginning.

Hello friends!

The events of this past year have forced me to reflect, reconsider, and transform my life.  When my spouse decided that he would rather be with a drug addict than to be with me, it forced me to reevaluate every aspect of my life.  No, this is not going to be a forum in which I bludgeon my ex.  Quite the opposite.  I have learned tremendously from this horrible experience and it has proven to be the catalyst propelling me to make overdue changes in my life.  I actually owe my ex-husband a debt of gratitude.  Let me explain.

Over the years, it seems I have had the weight of the world on my shoulders.  I have given myself wholeheartedly to my jobs, my husbands, and my family.  It wore me down, physically and emotionally.  Working two to three jobs at a time will do that.  So does being a widow...and a single mom...and a divorcee....and a cancer survivor.  And then the person who promised he'd be there for me forever decided I wasn't worth staying around for.  Ouch. My self-esteem died a very painful death this year.  This forced me to make accept some harsh realities. My priorities changed very quickly.  It also ignited a desire in me to change.  My faith in God grew expotentially as I realized I cannot control most of the things that happen in this world.  I let go.  I let go of my insecurities, my judgements, and my expectations.  I took time to be still.  For several months I stopped "being".  I became a hermit in my 10 x 13 bedroom.  Eventually I came to the realization that I needed to change everything. 

Within the next month I will be fifty years old.  Most people view this age as the beginning of being over the hill.  Not me.  This is the start of a brand, new life for me.  For starters, I am resigning from the best job I have ever had.  I have LOVED showing up to work at the theater every day.  The other managers and the crew are a second family to me.  I will miss seeing them and laughing with them every day.  I have decided to follow a lifelong passion of mine for helping other people.  I will be going on mission trips throughout the world starting in early summer.  The details are still in flux, but Alaska, Nepal, India, and Honduras are on the list.  I will be working with orphanages throughout the world helping with the care of the children and with the improvement of agricultural practices.  Assignments are based on the length of time my visa allows in each country. (Yes, I know Alaska isn't a foreign country.)  I am very excited to embark on this adventure.  If it weren't for the pain of this past year, I wouldn't be experiencing this opportunity in my life.  In the end, I owe my ex a huge thank you.  Because of the events of the past year, I am now fortunate to be able to follow my heart.  I will keep you posted on my escapades during my travels. 

Called or not, God is there