Grocery shopping, Nepali style

We went food shopping today. First, we stopped at the bank and exchanged 300USD for nepali rupiah. I walked away with 3 inches of paper rupees. It made me feel very wealthy. First, we went to the vegetable stand. The selection was cauliflower, potatoes, bananas, green leafy tops, onions, peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes, green beans, and ladyfinger(okra). We bought potatoes, green leafy tops, onions, green beans, and bananas for about $3.50. This is the norm for monsoon season. You have to buy what is in season. Because no vegetables are imported, you can only buy what is ripe in this area.

Next we went to the cold store. This is where you buy cheese. You get to decide which animal you want your cheese to have been made from...yak, cow, or water buffalo. You don't get to choose what type of cheese. You just get whatever was made from that animal. So far, I've had gouda, buttercheese, and Swiss.In Nepal, life is like a block of cheese, you never know what you're going to get! Cheese is expensive, about $7 per kilo.

Then we went to the butcher. They had chickens and eggs. I'm talking about live chickens that are looking you in the eye. They butcher them in front of you, and you can observe all of the unsanitary conditions such as flies, blood and guts, and the lack of washing of the cutting implements and counters. I'm glad I'm a vegetarian. The eggs are brown and warm and some still have straw and feathers on them. 30 eggs for about $2.50.

Next, we go to the German bakery to pick up bread. Most nepalis eat homemade roti ( a nepali flatbread/tortilla), therefore it is hard to find bread in a bakery. But, they sell bread and pastries here. I was excited to be able to buy German baked goods. When I tasted them, I realized that my German ancestors would be insulted that this bakery would be associated with their heritage. Such a disappointment. Picture a packaged honey bun at Wal-Mart posing as a cinnamon roll. Sad face. Bread, $3-$6 a loaf.

Next we go to Bhat Bhatini, the Nepal equivalent of a grocery store. It is about the size of a Walgreen's. There are lots of teas and spices and chips and cookies. The produce department is one shelf. The coldbox holds six packages of cheese and even fewer packages of butter. No freezer section because, without electricity, what's the point? Next they have flavored fruit drink boxes, followed by apples. There are lots of apples because they are in season. No meat is available. In the soda aisle there are Coke products only. Coke, Sprite, and Fanta Orange are the choices. The next two aisles contain staples of the nepali diet. Flour comes in 30 pound bags, rice in 50 pound bags and there is a large assortment of lentils and beans. Three aisles of cookies, one aisle of crackers. Half an aisle of candy. Oh..Orange Creme Oreos on the endcap....yes, please! No peanut butter is available. Things only get stocked when they are available. This means it may be two months before peanut butter is available again. When it is there on the shelves, people buy six at a time. Several products are like that, jams, ketchup, milk chocolate mix, tomato paste. Canned goods are hard to find.  Lots of sugared cereal options in the next aisle.   Flavored snacks take up the next aisle with unusual choices such as chicken flavored cheese puffs and India Masala Lays potato chips. The potato chips were delicious, the chicken flavored crunchy cheetoes, not so much. I found a half kilo package of MSG in the spice aisle. The remaining aisles are stocked with shampoo, laundry detergent, soap, lotion (but no sunscreen), and toothpaste (but no floss). Next to the checkout, I find a warm bottle of Pepsi. This is quite a feat in a land overrun with Coke products. I plop down 60 rupees...approximately 60 cents.....for a moment of sweet joy! It's the little things in life that can bring the most joy, isn't it?

Let the nightmare begin....I have a toothache in a third world country.  I'm praying it's not a cavity.

Wisdom to know the difference......


While growing up, there was a cross stitch copy of the serenity prayer hanging on the wall of our dining room.  By the time I was in the fifth grade I had it memorized.  It read, "God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change; courage to change the things I can; and wisdom to know the difference."

This month, for the first time in my life, the meaning of this prayer finally impacted my life. Due to the current political, religious, and ethnic tensions, I cannot go into details for the protection of those trying to help.  I can say that I have witnessed human rights violations.

It is hard having a 21st century viewpoint in a culture steeped in centuries old traditions and mindsets. Authorities know about the situation which I observed.  It has been going on for decades. The attitude is that it is best for society for these individuals to be treated this way. For me, the line between "socially acceptable" and basic human rights has clearly been crossed.  I've talked with other missionaries who are trying to help those impacted and they acknowledge that what I witnessed is not an isolated incident.

I came here to make a difference in the lives of those who already have so little.  To find out that these children have absolutely no basic human rights devastates me.  So here I am, in a country where so many people need help.  Where does one start? I guess this is where the serenity prayer comes in useful.  I will continue on with my work here, impacting where I am able, and, grudgingly, accepting my limitations.

Well, I've been here over a month now and I have adjusted well to the culture shock. I've dealt with the personal space issues...Nepalis are very friendly and prefer to get in close.  Interruptions...these are culturally acceptable and normal. Curiosity....they will go through your stuff--mostly just to see things that are not common for Nepal.  And then there are the bathrooms... I have not adjusted well to them and I shall never get used to them.

Things I've learned thus far:
Nepal is a place where starvation is a problem, not obesity. Men walk with arms around each other shoulders because they are friends, not because they are homosexual. Water buffalo, chickens, dogs, monkeys, and cows in the street are quite normal. I am more surprised when I have electricity than when I don't. I have learned that furniture and silverware are truly completely optional. I haven't worn shoes or a watch in over a month....and it feels wonderful. I've lost some weight, but feel great. Smiles need no translation. It's OK to sing off key as long as you sing as loud as you can.  The same goes for dancing....apparently there is no such thing as a bad dance move.  I am learning a LOT of patience dealing with home schooling a six year old, caring for a 17 month-old baby, and trying to "reason" with an autistic 4 year-old. I am loving the new friends and connections which I have made and am amazed at the number of international humanitarian groups/opportunities here. Be content with what you have. Share with others.  Practise hospitality.

The best church moment yet:
Women are on the left side of the room, men are on the other.  One father was holding his daughter, who was becoming fussy.  His wife was on the other side of the room.  Without hesitation she threw a stuffed animal clear across the room, missing her husband yet nailing another man in the head!  Priceless!

Holy lightning!

     It's been a brutal ten days here.  Our house was struck by lightning. There is nothing like being awoken by a simultaneous bolt of brightness and an intense thundering boom.  It brought me straight out of bed. If that wasn't unnerving enough, my muddled, not-quite-awake brain couldn't figure out what was bouncing around on my floor.  I grabbed my wind-up powered flashlight (Thanks Sis and Jim, it's been VERY well used this trip!) and discovered that the strike had blown the plastic outlet covers off of the wall.  They ricocheted off the opposite wall before clanging and bouncing off the tile floor. The kids were terrified and screaming upstairs.  The upstairs ceiling fan had caught on fire and had burned itself out.  The phone line was melted and burned up, all of our breakers were burned, and there is exploded bits of debris all over the roof. An electrician will have to come out to fix the wiring upstairs.  We've only been averaging about four hours of electricity per day, so there's no hurry for those repairs.  We've been without internet ever since.  Side note:  there are no fire brigades here.  All buildings are cinder block and stone construction so there's no fuel for fires and thus, no need for fire trucks.
     My tablet hit the ground and the screen is now shattered.  There are no Best Buys in Nepal for me to replace it and I can't have a new one shipped. There is no evidence of a home delivery mail system here.  The missionaries report that packages seldom arrive.  Most get lost in transit.  If one does happen to show up, it goes to an office in Pokhara, where it sits.  Once a 100% import tax is paid, then it is released.  The only way to know if you do have a package is to stop by every day and ask.  They do not notify when a package arrives.  I may have to wait until someone comes to visit so they can hand carry a replacement tablet for me.  (Hint, hint children....are you reading this?)