Chitwan
I was fortunate to spend a week in Chitwan. Chitwan is on the Nepal/India border and is home to rhinocerous, tigers, and elephants. The only goal I had for this trip was to ride an elephant. After being dropped off on the main road, I hopped aboard a local bus and rode the six kilometers to Chitwan. My first adventure was a four hour Jeep safari. We crossed a river in dugout canoes made from palm trees. During the safari, we saw deer, birds, monkeys, and crocodiles. The monkeys were not happy to see us. They were perched above us, throwing half-eaten nuts at our Jeep. It was funny and painful at the same time! We did not see any tigers or rhinocerous.
The following day I was able to ride an elephant. This was truly the highlight of my trip. They are so big, yet extremely quiet. My elephant was beautifully decorated with chalk markings. He stopped to eat once and broke a tree in half to get to the leaves. The elephant behind us wouldn't stop eating. They are powerful animals and aren't as slow as you would think. I have read about Hannibal, Genghis Khan, and Kublai Khan and their armies of elephants. I cannot imagine what the men on the battlefields thought when they saw an army of elephants coming towards them.
As I was traveling to the elephant safari, the poverty of this region became more evident. The homes are constructed of bamboo sticks covered with mud. Goats and chickens were sharing the tiny space inside the houses with the people living there. Again, the dichotomy of life in Nepal was present as I saw a young girl herding goats while talking on a cell phone.
During my safari trips, there were no rhinocerous or tiger sightings. On Wednesday, while walking into town, I saw a rhinocerous that wandered off the preserve and into someone's front yard. It was only about six feet away from the road, and it was HUGE! I got to practice my Nepali with some locals who also stopped to watch and they practised their English with me. Obviously, they were better with their linguistic skills than I was and when I really started to butcher their language, I just reverted to my "save me" phrase and said "I am very hungry". It always draws a laugh.
While I was in Chitwan, the Hindus were celebrating Tihar, a festival where they worship their possessions by dancing around them at night by firelight. It was fun to watch. They paint these intricate circles to place their stuff in. There are lights hung everywhere, very similar to our Christmas lights. They also paint cows and the dogs. The following day, the dogs were all sporting red stripes down their heads and faces and most still had flower garlands around their necks. It was all a bit surreal to me, watching the festival from the outside looking in, but I am glad I had the opportunity to observe it.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
Saturday, October 18, 2014
Getting around in Nepal
On the roads in Nepal, you will find cars, motorbikes, bicycles, buses, and people walking. Most people drive scooters or motorbikes.
As far as cars go, most people drive Suzuki Maruti's. They are a minicar, mostly used for cabs. Most are at least two decades old. It is normal to pack up to eight people in these minicars. Three people up front and five in the back. Seatbelts are only for the front two seats. There is no A/C, heat, vents, or defrosters. The Maruti's still have a choke button. My family drives a Maruti and it looks like a clown car when we arive someplace and start to unload.
As far as motorbikes go, most people have Hondas. 250 cc maximum. I haven't seen any Harleys here. There are lots of scooters also. There is no maximum number of people that may ride a motorbike. Drivers are required to wear a helmet, passengers are not. I have seen a family of five on a motorbike. It is interesting that even the youngest of children know they have to hold on when they are on a motorbike. There is no need for speed here because the condition of the roads is so poor. Where there are paved roads, there are speed bumps installed. These are not smooth, perfectly engineered speed bumps. They are built by piling rocks across the road and pouring "pavement" over top of them. Most are painted with stripes so you can see them. Some are not. They are so high and pointed that most cars bottom out as they go over the speed bumps. For the roads that aren't paved, speed bumps are not necessary....the pot holes are sufficient speed control by themselves. Sometimes the entire width of the road has washed out from the monsoon rains. I cannot even begin to describe how large some of the potholes are. My family replaces their shocks every year. The side roads are not very wide, but then again, neither are the cars. If the potholes and speed bumps aren't enough of a speed deterrent, there are cows and water buffalo wandering about everywhere. Don't even think about hitting one; it is my understanding that it's an automatic ten year prison sentence if you hit and kill a cow.
The public transit buses are numerous. I've ridden on them a few times now. It is just like the pictures you see on television. People are packed in like sardines while others are hanging off the side of the bus. I've always been on the inside and one time I even got to sit down in a seat. I can't complain for a 15 rupee fare, which is about 18 cents.
Finally, there is the situation with stop signs and stoplights. There aren't any. No kidding. There are no stoplights or stop signs here. At the busiest intersections, there are roundabouts. Some of the roundabouts have trees or a statue in the middle of them. Most roundabouts are cinder blocks or barrels piled in the street. You would think it would be total chaos, right? Nope. Traffic is always moving. In some crazy way, this system works for this country.
On the roads in Nepal, you will find cars, motorbikes, bicycles, buses, and people walking. Most people drive scooters or motorbikes.
As far as cars go, most people drive Suzuki Maruti's. They are a minicar, mostly used for cabs. Most are at least two decades old. It is normal to pack up to eight people in these minicars. Three people up front and five in the back. Seatbelts are only for the front two seats. There is no A/C, heat, vents, or defrosters. The Maruti's still have a choke button. My family drives a Maruti and it looks like a clown car when we arive someplace and start to unload.
As far as motorbikes go, most people have Hondas. 250 cc maximum. I haven't seen any Harleys here. There are lots of scooters also. There is no maximum number of people that may ride a motorbike. Drivers are required to wear a helmet, passengers are not. I have seen a family of five on a motorbike. It is interesting that even the youngest of children know they have to hold on when they are on a motorbike. There is no need for speed here because the condition of the roads is so poor. Where there are paved roads, there are speed bumps installed. These are not smooth, perfectly engineered speed bumps. They are built by piling rocks across the road and pouring "pavement" over top of them. Most are painted with stripes so you can see them. Some are not. They are so high and pointed that most cars bottom out as they go over the speed bumps. For the roads that aren't paved, speed bumps are not necessary....the pot holes are sufficient speed control by themselves. Sometimes the entire width of the road has washed out from the monsoon rains. I cannot even begin to describe how large some of the potholes are. My family replaces their shocks every year. The side roads are not very wide, but then again, neither are the cars. If the potholes and speed bumps aren't enough of a speed deterrent, there are cows and water buffalo wandering about everywhere. Don't even think about hitting one; it is my understanding that it's an automatic ten year prison sentence if you hit and kill a cow.
The public transit buses are numerous. I've ridden on them a few times now. It is just like the pictures you see on television. People are packed in like sardines while others are hanging off the side of the bus. I've always been on the inside and one time I even got to sit down in a seat. I can't complain for a 15 rupee fare, which is about 18 cents.
Finally, there is the situation with stop signs and stoplights. There aren't any. No kidding. There are no stoplights or stop signs here. At the busiest intersections, there are roundabouts. Some of the roundabouts have trees or a statue in the middle of them. Most roundabouts are cinder blocks or barrels piled in the street. You would think it would be total chaos, right? Nope. Traffic is always moving. In some crazy way, this system works for this country.
Saturday, October 11, 2014
Today, I went into a slum. The missionary family that I am assigned to was preaching at a church in the slum. The slum is situated on the banks of the river. The people who live in it make their living by carrying baskets of fine sand from the river to construction delivery trucks. It is strenuous work, done by women. These women are uneducated, unable to read or write. Even though the caste system has been eliminated, it still remains in full effect. It's hard to change a mindset that has been in place for generations upon generations. Getting there involved a bit of walking (slipping) down the mountainside. By Nepal standards, it was a road that we followed. Monsoon rains have pretty much eliminated any road surface and left ruts and rocks and sand behind. After crossing a bridge, we arrived at the church which is situated above the slum. The slum is everything you would picture it to be. Cinder block buildings with tin roofs which are held in place by large rocks from the river. The buildings have one or two rooms, some have a window, and old sheets are used for doors. People wash their clothes and dishes in the stream that runs through the middle of the slum.
We were invited into one of the homes after the church service. They had a two room home with no furnishings. A sheet was spread on the floor for us to sit on. The lack of furniture is not unusual here. It's been months since I have sat on a couch. The other room had a cabinet on which they cooked. They had ducklings in one corner of that room that they were raising to sell. They fed us and offered us drinks. Once again, the poorest of the poor are feeding us, with great pride. They have no possessions to speak of, yet willingly share what they do have with us. They could, quite literally, carry all of their possessions on their back. When the river gets high during monsoon season, they have to leave and seek higher ground.
We followed one of their paths up the mountain to get back to our car. At times, the path was only a sandal-width wide and seemed that only a mountain goat could navigate it. Other times, the stepping stones were well worn and smooth. Always, the view was stunning. Within a short period of time, we had climbed hundreds of feet above the river, the rice paddies, and the slum. Looking back down at the river, it becomes even clearer how dangerously those people live. The river threatens from one side, and the mud cliffs hover above them. A minor mudslide would wipe out the entire slum in an instant.
This is the second time we have been fed by people who have nothing. The first time we were walking to the river close to our home. We sat down to let the children play. While we were sitting there, an old woman walked past us carrying a bag of vegetables in one hand and a pile of water buffalo manure in the other hand. She went into her one room house which has no windows and no door. She put the manure outside to dry; she will use it as fuel to cook with when it completely dries out. She came out a bit later carrying a plate with an apple, a banana, and a piece of roti (bread). She offered us the food. We split the food and ate it while she talked with us. I was humbled that someone who has absolutely nothing would offer us what little she had. Again today, I was humbled by the generosity of the people here. These people have so many needs, yet they are so willing to share everything they have.
We were invited into one of the homes after the church service. They had a two room home with no furnishings. A sheet was spread on the floor for us to sit on. The lack of furniture is not unusual here. It's been months since I have sat on a couch. The other room had a cabinet on which they cooked. They had ducklings in one corner of that room that they were raising to sell. They fed us and offered us drinks. Once again, the poorest of the poor are feeding us, with great pride. They have no possessions to speak of, yet willingly share what they do have with us. They could, quite literally, carry all of their possessions on their back. When the river gets high during monsoon season, they have to leave and seek higher ground.
We followed one of their paths up the mountain to get back to our car. At times, the path was only a sandal-width wide and seemed that only a mountain goat could navigate it. Other times, the stepping stones were well worn and smooth. Always, the view was stunning. Within a short period of time, we had climbed hundreds of feet above the river, the rice paddies, and the slum. Looking back down at the river, it becomes even clearer how dangerously those people live. The river threatens from one side, and the mud cliffs hover above them. A minor mudslide would wipe out the entire slum in an instant.
This is the second time we have been fed by people who have nothing. The first time we were walking to the river close to our home. We sat down to let the children play. While we were sitting there, an old woman walked past us carrying a bag of vegetables in one hand and a pile of water buffalo manure in the other hand. She went into her one room house which has no windows and no door. She put the manure outside to dry; she will use it as fuel to cook with when it completely dries out. She came out a bit later carrying a plate with an apple, a banana, and a piece of roti (bread). She offered us the food. We split the food and ate it while she talked with us. I was humbled that someone who has absolutely nothing would offer us what little she had. Again today, I was humbled by the generosity of the people here. These people have so many needs, yet they are so willing to share everything they have.
Friday, October 10, 2014
Saturday, October 4, 2014
Clothes shopping, Nepali style
Ladies, you don't know what you're missing. The standard Nepali outfit for women is a kurtaa suruwaal. It is comprised of a tunic top, a scarf, and pajama-like pants. It is one of the most comfortable outfits I have ever worn, even more comfortable than scrubs. They are definitely as comfortable as pajamas. They are custom made, tailored specifically to each woman.
After entering the fabric shop, you are faced with three walls of bolts of cloth. You are led to a chair, sat down, given a drink, and are asked about your family and children. Only when this is finished do they proceed. The next step is narrowing down the color you want. This is Asia....bright colors rule! Once you decide on a color, then the staff starts laying out all sorts of bolts in the color that you want and now you have decide which one to choose. About the time you think you have your choice narrowed down, someone plucks down another irresistible pattern. It's best to go into the shop realizing that you're going to end up leaving with more than one outfit. Once the fabric color and pattern have been chosen, you are taken to the tailor. You are then measured in every direction possible: upper arm circumference, sleeve length preference, waist preference, side slit length, pantleg length, leg opening preference, V-neck/square neck/scalloped neck/round neck preference, waist-hip-bust measurements, and trunk measurement. Every stitch is made to fit your body. The tailor uses sewing machines from the early 1900's. I'm sure most of you will remember the old black iron Singer sewing machines with foot pedals and a huge wheel that make them work. Those are the machines that these tailors use. It makes sense because they can run without electricity. The kurtaas cost $17 for the cloth plus $3 for the tailor. $20 for a complete outfit....tunic, pants and scarf.....tailored to fit your body. And the icing on the cake....they are absolutely beautiful!
Ladies, you don't know what you're missing. The standard Nepali outfit for women is a kurtaa suruwaal. It is comprised of a tunic top, a scarf, and pajama-like pants. It is one of the most comfortable outfits I have ever worn, even more comfortable than scrubs. They are definitely as comfortable as pajamas. They are custom made, tailored specifically to each woman.
After entering the fabric shop, you are faced with three walls of bolts of cloth. You are led to a chair, sat down, given a drink, and are asked about your family and children. Only when this is finished do they proceed. The next step is narrowing down the color you want. This is Asia....bright colors rule! Once you decide on a color, then the staff starts laying out all sorts of bolts in the color that you want and now you have decide which one to choose. About the time you think you have your choice narrowed down, someone plucks down another irresistible pattern. It's best to go into the shop realizing that you're going to end up leaving with more than one outfit. Once the fabric color and pattern have been chosen, you are taken to the tailor. You are then measured in every direction possible: upper arm circumference, sleeve length preference, waist preference, side slit length, pantleg length, leg opening preference, V-neck/square neck/scalloped neck/round neck preference, waist-hip-bust measurements, and trunk measurement. Every stitch is made to fit your body. The tailor uses sewing machines from the early 1900's. I'm sure most of you will remember the old black iron Singer sewing machines with foot pedals and a huge wheel that make them work. Those are the machines that these tailors use. It makes sense because they can run without electricity. The kurtaas cost $17 for the cloth plus $3 for the tailor. $20 for a complete outfit....tunic, pants and scarf.....tailored to fit your body. And the icing on the cake....they are absolutely beautiful!
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